Getting to Know Knitwear

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Ooof! If there’s one thing I love about the colder weather that’s creeping in, it’s getting all cosy with knitwear and so it was without hesitation that as Autumn started showing it’s blustery face I swooped down to the beautiful Bermondsey to take in the latest exhibition at The Fashion and Textile Museum; called KNITWEAR, Chanel to Westwood. I’ve not been to an exhibition at this place which I haven’t adored, it’s the most informal, welcoming and relaxed atmosphere and the size of the exhibition space means that each show is perfectly digestible and you don’t need to spend hours making sure you’ve seen everything there is to see. Although that being said, I get the feeling that staff wouldn’t mind one bit if you fancied lingering the whole day long looking at the fashion on display. Sometimes with the more epic fashion exhibitions at venues such as the V & A, it can be kinda overwhelming and you feel like you need to invest the bulk of your day taking in all the sights and remembering all the information you are learning. Sometimes, that’s great, you wanna loose yourself in a magical exhibition, in an amazing venue for hours and hours, but, there’s a lot to be said for those small and perfectly formed exhibitions in smaller places which can be enjoyed as part of your day rather than as all of it. For me, this is where The Fashion and Textile Museum excel.
This exhibition was a super display of knitted fashions spanning the last century and, was interestingly predominantly made up of the personal collection of Mark and Cleo Butterfield. It was more a showing off of their vast and spectacular collection than a timeline of knitting, allowing the whole thing to feel slightly more light-heated than historically rigid. With amaaaazing examples on show, we get to see the journey of knitwear; it’s early use for warmth and function, knitted swimwear and evening dresses of the 1920’s, the ‘make do and mend’ trend for unravelling jumpers to use the yarn again, embellished angora sweaters from the 50’s, futuristic knits from the likes of Couregges in the 60’s, novelty and folklore knits in the 70’s and the experimental bold knitwear from the 80’s! This exhibition is thorough without being too heavy and you get a really good grasp of knitwear and it’s past, there’s plenty to swoon over, especially, for me, the 1920’s fine knit gowns! The layout was a bit dark for me, the displays were sectioned into large wooden shipping crates, with some piled two high so it pulled the small space in quite close and felt a bit gloomy, but, the actual garments themselves were all pretty well lit and what I always like about this place is you can peep your eyes up real close to the displays and see every stitch! A gorgeous exhibition that leaves me gasping to get a look at more of Cleo and Marks incredibly large private collection of vintage fashion….. making mine just seem teeny in comparison.

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 KNITWEAR, Chanel to Westwood is on at the FTM until 18th January 2015

To find out more about Cleo and Mark Butterfield visit their blog

The Magic of Old Dresses

Fashion from the past is forever finding a way back into our modern lives, becoming valid once more to a new audience. Fashion in the 1920’s was a frivolous and whimsical affair reflecting society’s feelings of liberation once war had ended. So it’s perhaps perfectly fitting that as the weight of the recession seems to lift, we see the release of the brand new Woody Allen film, Magic in the Moonlight, set in the 1920’s; making us all fall slap-bang in love with the care-free and relaxed fashion of this era to match our new found hope.

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I defy any girl not to fall under the spell of the adorably dressed Emma Stone in this charmed film. Magic in the Moonlight refreshingly focuses on the day wear of the 20’s more than the typically favoured Flapper evening dresses, making this enchanting look a much more wearable option for us today. Delicate fabrics, dainty detail and loose shapes, all provide a beautifully simple new silhouette, gone were the corsets and rigid underskirts, replaced with a light hearted weightlessness and freedom of movement in unstructured shapes. Petite boyish collars, soft muted colours, dropped waists and elegant mid-calf lengths are the leading elements to this look. Day wear had a delightful androgyny to it then, women wore adapted men’s suits and sailors jackets; a trend Coco Chanel inspired.

Fashion always has a way of reflecting the current attitude of society and the casual grace and ease of Emma Stone’s character in this film will have us all wishing for an easy-going, relaxed style; this enchanting film will inspire the 1920’s girl in us all!

Getting the look of this era whether you’re wanting the original thing or a modern interpretation is a perfect way to dress heading into the new season. Designers and the high street are endlessly looking to this era for inspiration, with many dresses and separates superbly supplying you with an up-to-date take on the look. When it comes to the real vintage version, the dreamy day wear is a more attainable option than original Flapper dresses. Look for dresses, blouses and skirts with an effortless nostalgic tone, a good vintage find of this age is always adorable and a great collectors piece. The more notorious evening dresses from those days are becoming a rare treat to find, dresses embellished with sequins made of wax quite often had the print of a hand melted onto the waist from a dance partners hold, and the fragile silks have commonly become torn and tatty from the weight of their decorative glass beads; a heartbreaking shame for those of us who covet dresses from those days but a cute testament to the celebratory and spontaneous joy that was felt at the time, surely a brilliant way for fashion to show how we live our lives!

Get the look….

1920's red cotton day dress from Prim Vintage Fashion, £165

1920’s red cotton day dress from Prim Vintage Fashion, £165

1920's cream cotton day dress from Prim Vintage Fashion, £165

1920’s cream cotton day dress from Prim Vintage Fashion, £165

Crepe pansy dress from Prim Vintage Fashion, £145

Crepe pansy dress from Prim Vintage Fashion, £145

Beaded 1920's Flapper dress from Prim Vintage Fashion, £265

Beaded 1920’s Flapper dress from Prim Vintage Fashion, £265

1920's purple silk evening dress from Prim Vintage Fashion, £245

1920’s purple silk evening dress from Prim Vintage Fashion, £245

Peach 20's style dress from Cos, £79

Peach 20’s style dress from Cos, £79

Satin & wool 1920's style dress from Miu-Miu, £1470

Satin & wool 1920’s style dress from Miu-Miu, £1470

V is for Victory- The stunning new Victoria Beckham store opens

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When it comes to 90’s pop stars creating a fashion range, it’s fair to say that most don’t manage to pull off anything more than a naff collection that soon gets lost to time. Very few create anything good, but Mrs Victoria Beckham hasn’t only done good, she has completely excelled. Lovers of great fashion know that ‘Victoria Beckham’, since it’s quiet launch in 2008 continues to amass both adoration, and great respect. Not only are her designs both classic and innovative at the same time, but her quality and attention to detail are faultless.

On Thursday I was beyond thrilled to be part of the opening day of her first ever store on Dover Street; one of London’s most salubrious shopping districts. Outside was piled high with onlookers and paparazzi as I got there because David Beckham had just arrived to give his seal of approval to the amazing store. As I stroked and fawned at her products, there was a calm excitement in the store as champagne was handed around by the best dressed waiters and David stood chatting with Victoria’s Sister and Father, it was a very cool scene to behold.

The store is nothing short of stunning. A seamless, modern and angular shopping space covering three floors. The polished concrete floors, the dark mirrored walls and ceilings all make it feel luxuriously sparse. It feels like an art gallery with the clothing as the exhibit, it totally allows the collection to have the display it deserves. The clothes are perfect, first class, you get the feeling that Beckham’s quality control is paramount. Every single detail has been attended to, even the usual necessary eyesores that are fire extinguishers are a polished chrome, making them objects of beauty. The staircases dominate the space and the whole store has the feel of a catwalk, it doesn’t get much more fashion than this place. The Architect that designed this store with Beckham is Farshid Moussavi, who never usually works on retail spaces and who is better known for her work on the Olympic Park and modern Art Museums. This is a great use of an Architect whose ideas bring something new to a shopping environment, I wouldn’t say that no other clothes shop has ever gone for a modern minimalist space but this, well, it’s been done on a hugely grand and very expensive scale. When you add in the scent of the Diptyque’s Feu de Bois candles that are placed very particularly around the store, this is a pretty spectacular way to shop. The VIP basement has the most beautiful Damien Hirst pink heart hanging on the wall, which was a gift from David to Victoria; you truly get a sense of her in this store, it doesn’t feel as though she is the untouchable figure behind it, it feels as though you are in her home. The staff were more than welcoming and you feel as though the store is offered to you as much for a joyous look-around as it is for you to shop in. Beckham’s customers will be mostly those with a hefty bank balance, her jeans start at around £1000 and her dresses sit around the £3-5000 price point, it’s not where most girls will buy a quick dress for a Friday night out- hardly surprising when you consider her store sits alongside the likes of McQueen and Louboutin. In this high end world of fashion, Beckham has done good, she has totally nailed it.

I’ll be returning for sure and I’m eager to see what she does to make the store look fresh again with each new collection, it was a good morning and to walk out to the waiting paps was an exciting moment in itself, feeling as though you were one of the lucky gals who got a first look…AND…I got full on eye contact with David Beckham which kinda made my tummy spin! Whoop! My photos don’t do the store enough justice, it really needs to be visited to get the full effect, but if you peek closely you can see David in one of them!
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vb54vb55vb59vb56vb57VB12IMG_7883vb58VB14The new Victora Beckham store is open at 36 Dover Street, London W1

 

Too Much of a Good Thing is Wonderful

“I don’t dress this way to go unnoticed”

On my recent American road-trip holiday, we spent three days in Las Vegas. I was last in Vegas when I was 21 and this time my memories aren’t as fond; it was busier, stinkier, hotter and tackier than ever. Too many stag do’s, drunken business trips, and voyeuristic tourists have turned this magical kitsch city into a bad night in a sweaty nightclub. Alas, it appears that any glamour has long gone. But, luckily, as I was walking past The Cosmopolitan hotel and casino, I saw a sparkle of the city’s past glamour; in a small but perfectly formed exhibition showcasing the sequin festooned stage outfits of pianist Liberace. Phew.lib15alib16alib20a

In Las Vegas, both now and in it’s heyday, it seems that the bigger, the tackier, the more brash, indulgent and extravagant; the better. And who better to have lived by this idea than glittering entertainer Liberace. I don’t know a lot about him, I know he was a child prodigy on the piano, I know he was camp and theatrical and that between the 50’s and 70’s he was the highest paid entertainer in the world, wowzers. Liberace’s love affair with flamboyance began when, as a younger man he was watching pianist Hildegarde and was told ‘you’ve got to get a gimmick‘. Liberace then went and bought a gold candelabra from a thrift store and placed it on top of his piano whilst performing. This was just the start, his signature style of kitsch European opulence was born. Much of his career was spent playing residencies in Vegas at hotels such as Flamingo where I stayed, and up until 3 years ago there was a permanent museum in the city dedicated just to him. It would seem that Liberace and Las Vegas go hand in hand, this ace pop-up exhibition at Cosmopolitan celebrated the over the top, in your face, bedazzling style that you would expect from America’s most garish city. The title of the exhibition states it perfectly;

‘Too much of a good thing is wonderful: Liberace and The Art of Costume’

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King Neptune Suit

This suit dazzled audiences around the country and was replicated for the recent movie ‘Behind The Candelabra’. The beads elaborately create the look of waves, shells and sea coral.

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‘Rhinestone Suit’

Whoosh, someone went crazy with the rhinestones on this one. As with many of his suits this is made from a sturdy polyester gabardine but the embellishments completely cover the utility fabric. The crystal rhinestones are rim set- a now obsolete technique that encloses the stone within a circular mount and then attaches it to the fabric.

collagelib3‘Purple and Phoenix Suit’   

Liberace sure knew how to make an entrance and at Radio City Music Hall in 1986 he came onto the stage from above- showcasing this suits bird motif and glittering plumage! The birds are outlined in crystal seed beads and pink French curled Ostrich feathers make up their tails. Feathers featured in many of his costumes, making it hard for preserving the collection.

collagelib4‘Matador Suit and Cape’

Crikey this one’s pretty glam! Liberace wore this costume for his 1981 performances in Mexico City. The elaborate sequin work on the cape is accomplished with the now obsolete Cornely machine, a chain stitch machine which allowed the individual application of beads and sequins.

collagelib5‘Hapsburg-inspired Suit and Cape’ 

This rather camp ensemble was designed by Michael Travis in 1983, it features a double headed Eagle associated with the rulers of the Austrian Empire; The Hapsburgs. Heavily appliqued using gold lame and bands of gold bugle beads to make up it’s lavish appearance. The cape is trimmed in Sable fur.

collagelib6‘Red, White and Blue Hot Pants Ensemble’

Woah, it doesn’t get much more American than this! Liberace wore this rather patriotic number in 1986 as a tribute to the 100th anniversary of the Statue of Liberty. The embellishments of silver bugle beads and crystals give the illusion of separate garments but it is in fact a jumpsuit, making costume changes easier. Audiences loved how this suit demonstrated Liberace’s wonderful sense of humour.

collagelib7‘Christmas Suit and Cape’

I wish Father Christmas was real and that he wore this. In 1980 Liberace wore this gabardine and white fox cape for his Christmas shows at Las Vegas Hilton. The cape demonstrates the skill of Anna Nateece, a Greek born fur designer, the cape was entirely lined in silver sequins…oh my!

This pop-up exhibition was a delight, a perfectly delivered slice of old style Vegas glamour, the Vegas I treasure, where neon signs were a novelty, people dressed up for the shows and casinos, and when a trip to this city was a glistening indulgence. There are rumours that the permanent Liberace Museum (it was open for 31 years and closed in the recession) will reopen in a new downtown location, which would be marvelous, you gotta admit that this guy had some pretty exciting style and it would be a real shame to hide that away in this sequin-celebrating city.

 

An American Adventure

I’m back! Back from a holiday that was brilliant beyond words! Having had our shop in Norwich for so long, James and I had to always take separate, if any, holidays and so finally we got to take one together; and my goodness it was good! We decided we were gonna take a holiday to celebrate James’ big birthday and then when our beautiful friends who live in NYC announced that they were getting hitched in the middle of Moab Desert in Utah, we decided that a road trip through USA was the only way to go! We flew to San Francisco and spent a few days staying with my long time bestie Kristin, and then picked up our hire car, a Jeep and headed out to the desert! Going via Big Sur, Santa Barbara, Las Vegas and Escalante before hitting Utah for the wedding! Then a few more days of exploring, through Beaver and back to Vegas before flying home!

I was brought up, very fortunately, with lots of emphasis on travel and so I’ve spent much time visiting USA before as well as having spent time there studying for my Degree, I ADORE America, that place truly has my heart and this trip was a pure delight! My eyes saw things they couldn’t quite believe, the scenery in Utah was other-worldly and the heat was insane…45 degrees in the desert!! Wooosh! The trip was mind-blowing and then the wedding of our brilliant friends made it even more special! A beautiful glamping weekend wedding with the heat and the backdrop of the desert, it was so very magical I cannot even try to describe it. Simply luminous with love.

The trip cost us money we don’t have and I feared James and I would drive each other crazy in a car for two weeks, but, it was worth every cent and squabble, what a wonderful adventure we had, a perfect start to our new non-shop chapter of life! I’m pretty snap-happy with my iPhone when travelling and seeing new things, so I documented the whole trip on my Instagram; lots of you appeared to enjoy sharing my journey with me, such fun! These are just a few highlights, if you wanna, you can see all my holiday snaps here!

What a ride! Now back to reality and pretty dresses! xx

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