The Prim Girl’s Pick- Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014

Waaah, this season all the Fashion Weeks have scurried past me without getting a chance to blog about them! Whilst usually focusing on London Fashion Week each season, I’ve decided to choose my picks from all the different cities…too much gorgeousness to choose from!

Top 10 catwalk looks

  • Giambattista Valli, PFW
  • Giambattista Valli, PFW
  • Emilia Wickstead, LFW
  • Christian Dior, PFW
  • Alica and Olivia, NYFW
  • Emilia Wickstead, LFW
  • Cacharel, PFW
  • Zac Posen, NYFW
  • Zac Posen, NYFW
  • Sonia Rykiel, PFW

Most beautiful catwalk show

For a while now I have been literally drooling over the work of Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent, oh my, his designs are jawdroppingly gorgeous in their simplicity, their attitude and their tailoring. Sexy androgony, yummy colour palette and a very cool air of nonchalance. This catwalk collection makes my heart jump, it’s stunning, I would wear every single look, punky, lots of black and divine detail in shapes, utter perfection. Swoon.

 

Blumenfeld Does It Beautifully

The last few sunny days of the season are upon us and my goodness it’s been a delight this year, I have looooved the summer! To make the most of the last days of summer I figured I needed to get down to London to finally take a peep at an exhibition that was nearly ending. So, off I headed under the sunny skies to have myself a day out! Somerset House is by far one of my most favourite venues for exhibitions, this small but perfectly formed exhibition of iconic fashion photographer Erwin Blumenfeld was in the east wing, the same place as the Tim Walker exhibition that I blogged about in January. It’s a great, simple, elegant and informal space, I always love visiting.

Erwin Blumenfeld, 1897-1969, a Berlin born Jew, moved himself to New York City in 1941 and fast became a prolific photographer of his time, formulating his own recognisable style of playing with colour, light and manipulating his images. Becoming part of the explosion of press in the USA at the time, Blumenfeld worked for many big magazines including Harper’s Bazaar, Vogue, Life, Look and Cosmopolitan. In 1950, he was the highest paid Photographer in the world. This cute and stunning exhibition focused on some of the archives that were found in his studio, he left hundreds and hundreds of old original transparencies. Deteriorated and faded from time, the images were digitally reconstructed for the exhibition and printed in colours believed to be the same as the originals. Amazing.

His work wasn’t something I was over familiar with before my visit, although on seeing his work you realise just how many iconic photographs from fashion history were down to him. I adored the exhibition, I especially loved seeing the old images close up and seeing women without airbrushing, a real refresher. Blumenfelds work was beautiful, I saw a humour and an abstract surreal element to them, they seem utterly timeless but yet startingly modern. A super, sunny afternoon at Somerset House. 

 

  1. Jean Patchett, circa 1954
  2. Grace Kelly for Cosmopolitan cover, 1955, dress by Oleg Cassini
  3. Exhibition view
  4. Variants of a photograph published in US Vogue, 1950, dress by Jaques Faith, model Evelyn Tripp
  5. Exhibition view
  6. Advertising photograph for Elizabeth Arden, undated, model Evelyn Tripp
  7. Variant of ‘Do Your Part For The Red Cross’ Vogue cover, 1945
  8. Published Red Cross Vogue cover, 1945
  9. Variant of Vogue cover, 1953, dress by Traina-Norell, model Nancy Berg
  10. Published Vogue cover, 1953

The exhibition has now ended but visit Somerset House for details of other exhibitions.

 

Prim girl goes Punk; Chaos to Couture in NYC

METBeing a girl who adores fashion exhibitions, and being a girl who was just recently in New York City, it must come as no surprise that, whilst in Manhattan, I headed straight off to The Metropolitan Museum of Art to take a look at the current Costume Institute exhibition; Punk: Chaos to Couture. Concieved and curated by the British Andrew Bolton and designed by Sam Gainsburg, this exhibition was a real delight. Having had some critiscm for not representing the gritty, agressive, druggy and anti-establisment culture of punk, Bolton has instead curated an exhibition of fashion through the years which pays tribute to and embraces the ethos of punk and its visual language. He deliberately didn’t want to do a nostalgic retrospective on punk,  “I don’t want this to be a trip down memory lane”, I think by making that choice he has provided us with a really fresh take on the genre and its enduring influence on high fashion. The exhibition has done exactly what it set out to do, it is a fashion exhibition and not a look at music, politics or the subculture of punk itself.

This exhibition is a feast for the eyes, no glass boxes, no stuffy layout, all the clothes were in the open and perfectly grouped in each gallery, some gallerys were light and modern with a clean monotone pallette while others were dark and loud and multicoloured. Each gallery was totally different from the last and each was stunning. The exhibition looked at the origins of Punk in the 70’s, covering both London and NYC, with cute mock-ups of seedy club toilets and the Vivienne Westwwood Sex shop. It then covered all aesthetic influences of punk with galleries each dedicated to a theme; DIY Hardware, Bricolage, Graffiti & Agitpop, and Destroy. Some of the clothes were beautiful, some were a little experimental, but stunning in their creations none the less. It was great that there was really recent fashion there as well as some older pieces, original Westwood items from the era alongside a 2010 Punk inspired Moschino dress. The clash between the creaftmanship of couture and the ameturism of real DIY punk clothing was both subtle but deliberate, as Bolton himself said, both stem from spontaniety and individuality, therefore embracing the punk ideal. The styling of the mannequins was great, very strong with matching wigs of exaggerated spiked and coloured hair. The lighting in each space was theatrical perfection. I loved this exhibition, I saw fashions that I adored and I saw styling that was humourous and well thought out, the fact it was in my favourite museum in my favourite city on a balmy hot day made it all the more super. I’d recommend this to people who love fashion, if you were an original punk and looking for a representation of the era and all its anarchy then you won’t find it here, this is about fashion and the influence punk has on it; its a pretty kind of punk. Pretty cool.

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  1. Christopher Bailey for Burberry S/S 2013
  2. Original Westwood/McLaren Seditionaries T-shirts
  3. amazing studded skirt from Too fast To Live, Too Young To Die, 1972
  4. general exhibition view
  5. black dress on the left by Versace S/S 1994 (famously worn by Liz Hurley)
  6. black bin bag dress by House of Moschino S/S 1994
  7. outfit of pearls by Maison Martin Margiela  S/S 2006
  8. plastic bag dress on far right by House of Moschino S/S 1994
  9. general view including Katherine Hamnett slogan T-shirts
  10. spray painted Alexander McQueen S/S 1999
  11. general exhibition view
  12. dress by Miguel Androver 2000
  13. the final mannequin gives the finger

Punk: Chaos to Couture is at The Met until 14th August 2013

Graduate Fashion Week

Lucky me, I received a press pass for Graduate Fashion Week; the most perfect excuse to head down to Earl’s Court and spend some time checking out the strongest new fashion talent in the land. London in the sunshine and heaps of fashion; happy girl indeed. Graduate Fashion Week is the perfect platform to showcase the work of over 1,000 graduates from the best UK and international Universities. It offers up the future of fashion with its large exhibition, catwalk shows and acclaimed Gala Award Show. Having been the launch pad for many of our best current day designers such as Stella McCartney, Giles Deacon and Matthew Williamson, it sure is an important place to visit.

I swooned over many beautiful designs and portfolios, and chatted to some very lovely keen beans, freshly starting out on their careers. A few people and their work stood out as my favourites. Firstly, Gemma Harvey, who has just finished her Fashion Marketing Degree at Northumbria University. In her final year, Gemma took on the project of developing her own brand which she calls ‘Hotel Des Fleurs’, a concept store in Paris, based on her love of France and flowers. She designed clothing, branding and marketing material and I was smitten with the colours and the exaggerated abundance of florals. I like things to be either simplistic or overdone and so this overly frothy and super detailed branding was adorable. The colours of pinks and greens were delicious and the clothing was cute as can be. The fabrics she designed; a silky soft lawn cotton with hand painted prints and hand sewn embroidery were incredible, and her passion was totally charming, heck, even her business cards were in the form of a packet of seeds…oh and all the fabric was scented too….I loved it!
Gemma Harvey

Gemma Harvey

Gemma Harvey

Gemma Harvey

Another girl whose work made my eyes pop was Vanina Yankova, who has just finished studying Fashion Knitwear Design at Nottingham Trent University. Her portfolio of sketches, work and ideas was stunning, the colours, textures and silhouettes were beautiful. Definitely a girl with a whole lot of talent, this girl will be a big success. Vanina Yankora

Vanina Yankora

Vanina Yankova

An Accessories Designer called Jessica Chapman was another girl whose work I loved. Graduating from De Montfort University, she bases her designs on architectural influences and the heavy wood is used perfectly, all her pieces have a great strength and certainty. The big bracelet comes apart and clamps around the wrist with hidden magnets, amaaazing!

Jessica Chapman

Jessica Chapman

Jessica Chapman

The final thing that stood out for me was the selection of designers from Instituto Marangoni, an international fashion school in London. Everything shown from this school was executed to a professional perfection, genuinely stunning. The work of A Young Ji was beautiful, intricate beading and luxury detail, totally wearable too.

A Young Ji

A Young JiA Young JiI also loved Laura Stockl from the same school, great work with leathers and jumbo photo printed paillettes, wow.Laura Stockl

Laura StocklA real treat to get up close with some of the most exciting, skilled and innovative graduates in the land, good things are sure to come to them.

For more information on these graduates and their universities please visit; Gemma harvey on Linkedin, Northumbria University’s website, Vanina Yankova on Linkedin, Nottingham Trent University, De Montfort University, A Young Ji, Laura Stockl, Instituto Marangoni, and Graduate Fashion Week.

 

Prada Dresses Daisy; The Great Gatsby Costumes

 

 

‘Cant repeat the past?…..Why, of course you can.’  The Great Gatsby, F Scott Fitzgerald

Great Gatsby

 

Whoopie-dooo! I am so excited to see Baz Lurhman’s The Great Gatsby, and the release date is very nearly here! I adore the F Scott Fitzgerald book, it is quite possibly my favourite book ever, and Lurhman is one of the most sumptuously beautiful directors of our time, so I am pretty damn certain the wait shall be worth it.

For many of Lurhman’s films, including Romeo & Juliet and Moulin Rouge, the costume designer was the supremely talented Catherine Martin. For this film, set in New York in the 1920’s, Martin has teamed up with the legendary Miuccia Prada. Super; we are in for a treat. Transforming over 40 dresses from the archive collections of Miu Miu and Prada, Miuccia says she was fascinated by how little adaptation many of them needed, even though none had originally been designed with the 20’s era in mind. These costumes are about character and the story of those characters lives, rather than blatant glamour.

Great Gatsby

Great GatsbyGG1

With this yellow sequin dress from a past Prada collection, we can see how easily suited the original design was for this film, the perfect choice of costume collaborator.

Great Gatsby

Prada

The centre piece dress in the film is Daisy Buchanan’s party dress, which is a gently revised version of Prada’s Chandelier dress from their 2010 collection, as seen here on Miss Moss. The dress was originally designed around the idea of light, but in this film it is about wealth; Lurhman wanted Daisy to be the ‘most beautiful and rich woman in the world’.

mossy

Great GatsbyAn exhibition showcasing the costumes is currently showing in the New York Prada store, to coincide with the anticipation of the film’s release, then the exhibition goes to Tokyo and Shanghai.The movie hits UK movie theatres on May 16th. 

For more information visit The Great Gatsby and Prada.